French Restoration Sterling Silver Drageoir. |
Among the Ordinances of the Court of King Henry VII were a
number of very detailed directions on how to properly serve a “voide of
spice”. Well before Henry’s time, a
voide was worthy enough of mention that on numerous occasions they were
included in the chronicle histories of Froissart, Hall, Holinshed and perhaps
others. These occurred at the end of the meals of kings and after ambassadorial
meetings, etc.
Presumably, the “voide” was far more wide spread among the
nobility of Europe though not as worthy of chronicling. No one is certain of the origin of the
term. It only occurs in English. But voides do tend to occur when the hall is
being “voided,” or cleared, after meals.
In French it is called simply servir vin et épices,
“serving wine and spices”. In at least
the more august company, the French voide was served in a special compartmented
box/dish called a drageoir. The
more expensive the drageoir the more impressive the experience. The very best were made of solid gold, the
next of solid silver, etc.
In England, as well, the material of the spice plate, wine
decanter and cups was a sign of status.
Even plated gold and silver were worthy of mention in merchant’s
homes. Solid gold and silver bespoke
royalty and wealthy nobles. Less was a
gaff or worse.
Scads of colorful information and entertainment. |
Henry VII’s Ordinances are the only formal recorded rules
for voides that would seem to exist. At
the end of a meal in the King’s hall:
the servant of the spicerie was wont to bring the spice-plate
to the chamber, and the King's sewer [personal waiter] to take it of him and
bring it into the presence with all other plates; and then the Lord
Chamberlaine to give the sewer the assay [first taste], and that donne to
committ it to the estates [senior nobility]. And in that season the cup-bearer,
or in his absence an estate [senior nobleman] assigned by the discretion of the
Lord Chamberlaine, to take the cupp for the Kinge and to goe forth with the
spice-plates to serve the Kinge; the sewer, cupbearer, and chamberlaine for the
Queene, to doe likewise; and the spice by them taken, the plates to be covered
againe, and the sewers to take them againe, and to goe and stand above the
cupboard, and the cupbearer, Knight or Lorde assigned for the time, to beare
the cupp, to take and sett it on the cupboard.[1]
The spice plates had covers, we learn, which are ritually
removed and replaced throughout the ceremony.
King and Queen are first to be served.
Further on we learn that any bishop present must be served
before even the King:
An esquire to bring the Bishopps spice-plate, and ere the
King take his spice, he hath used to make a becke to the Bishoppe, that he
should first take his;…[2]
After a nod of permission from the King, God’s
representative takes his spice first.
God and King, then, are acknowledged in proper order.
While Henry gives us our only formal Ordinances, a 14th
century reference in Froissart’s Chronicles makes clear that the most
august of the vin et épices of that time consisted of similar
ceremonies. When the Kings of England
and France met at Calais in 1396:
The duke of Berry served the king of France with the
comfit-box [drageoir], and the duke of Burgundy with the cup of wine. In
like manner was the king of England served by the dukes of Lancaster and
Gloucester. After the kings had been served, the knights of France and England
took the wine and spices, and served the prelates, dukes, princes, and counts;
and, after them, squires and other officers of the household did the same to
all within the tent, until everyone had partaken of the spices and wine; during
which time, the two kings freely conversed.[3]
It is quite possible, then, that Henry’s particular focus on
recording ordinances for his voides of spice, — one for each of a number of
special royal circumstances — only informs us what was done in the Courts of
Royalty already for centuries.
Regardless, a special love for the ceremony, on his part, is indicated. The Court indulged as often as an excuse
could be offered to do so.
The derivation of the drageoir of the French vin et epices indicates as much. It comes from Old French dragie, via Latin tragēmata, from Ancient Greek τραγήματα (tragḗmata, “dried fruits, sweetmeats”).[6] In the 14th century, the “spices” referred to dried fruits and sweetmeats, the other spices not yet being generally available at any price from the East. Moreover, it is not clear that spices were put into the wine even in Henry's time. The "spices" were served on plates which suggests that even then they were likely to have been "comfits" eaten in one hand while the wine was imbibed in the other.
[1] Liber quotidianus
contrarotulatoris garderobae (1787), 112.
[2] Ibid.
[3] Sir
John Froissart’s Chronicle (1868) transl. by Thomas Johnes. 2,
619. “Entretant on appareilla vin et
épices; et servit du drageoir et des épices le roi de France, le duc de Berry;
et de la coupe et du vin, le duc de Bourgogne; et le roi d'Angleterre,
pareillement le duc de Lancastre, et le duc de Glocestre de vin et des épices. Le
vin et les épices prises des deux rois, chevaliers de France et d'Angleterre
reprirent les drageoirs, et les épices, et les coupes, et le vin; et servirent
les prélats, les ducs et les comtes; et après les écuyers et gens d'office firent
ce métier; et tant que tous ceux qui dedans la tente étoient eurent vin et
épices ; et entretant sans nuls empêchemens, parlementèrent les deux rois
ensemble. ” Les Chroniques de Sire
Jean Froissart (1852), ed. Buchon. 3, 258.
[4] A
Collection of Ordinances and Regulations for the Government of the Royal
Household... Edw III to Wm & Mary (1790), 174.
[5]
Skeat, Walter W. The Complete Works
of Geoffrey Chaucer: Boethius and Troilus (1900), 506.
[6]
Wiktionary.
Also at Virtual Grub Street:
- History of the Medieval Fork… or Lack Thereof. March 28, 2019. “The Italian and also most strangers that are commorant in Italy, doe alwaies at their meales use a little forke, when they cut their meate.”
- Hedingham Castle 1485-1562 with Virtual Tour Link. January 29, 2019. “Mr. Sheffeld told me that afore the old Erle of Oxford tyme, that cam yn with King Henry the vii., the Castelle of Hengham was yn much ruine,…”
- Dietary Rules for Barnacles: Innocent III to Gordon Ramsey. March 4, 2019. “The Barnacle was a marvel of God, a confusion to those in authority in such matters. Their people turned to them for clarification.”
- Shakespeare’s Barnacles. March 3, 2016. “Prospero will wake, he fears, before they can murder him, and will cast a spell on them.”
- The King's Esnecce. January 13, 2019. “It comes as no surprise, then, that when Maud’s son, Henry Plantagenet, Count or Duke of most of the western territories of France, and, by terms of the treaty, heir to Stephen, next rose to the throne as Henry II, he was quick to arrange for the safest possible means of transit across the channel.”
- Check out the Medieval Topics Article Index for many more articles about this fascinating time.
I respectfully disagree with several statements: the meaning of "assay", whether spices were put into wines during Henry VII's time, and no spices being generally available at that time. And, I believe that there is confusion between the use of "spices" and "spices".
ReplyDeleteAre you certain that “to give the sewer the assay” was to test for spices in the wine? Historians continue to say that assaying the wine was checking the wine to prove there was no poison. The “assay” could be tasting or using a “poison detector” such as a unicorn horn, bezoar, etc. (See https://tinyurl.com/y68mjfyz.)
Were spices put into wine before Henry VII's time? There are at least two recipes for spiced wine (hipocras, ypocras) from this time. “Goud Kokery”, c. 1380, has a recipe for “potus ypocras” which lists cinnamon, ginger, grains (of paradise), long pepper, cloves, nutmeg, caraway, spikenard, galangale, sugar or honey. A c. 1390 recipe in “Forme of Curye” lists similar spices plus a few additional ones. Those recipes would seem to make it clear that spices *were* put into wine before Henry VII’s time.
I wonder if there might be some confusion between “spices” (used in preparing food for feasts) and “spices” referring to the dragees/comfits/sugared items used in the voidee. “In the 14th century, the “spices” referred to dried fruits and sweetmeats, the other spices not yet being generally available at any price from the East.” In this sentence, it seems that the first use of “spices” refers to the sweets distributed in the voidee. The second use of “spices” seems to refer to spices in general which were definitely available by the nobility. There was a Pepperers Guild which dates from 1180. The Two Anglo-Norman culinary manuscripts (early 1200s) have recipes which include, at a minimum, these spices: pepper, cumin, ginger, cloves, galingale, cinnamon, cubebs. (http://www.medievalcookery.com/notes/royal12cxii.txt)
By the early- to mid-1300s, dragees (comfits) were sugar-covered spices which could include nuts and orange peels as well as things we commonly call spices: ginger, anise, cubebs, cinnamon, caraway, cloves, grains of paradise, fenugreek, and cumin. These sweets (aka spices or epices de chambre) were even carried into battle by nobles such as the Counts of Hainault (1325) and the Duke of Guelders (1369). (Petits Propos Culinaires, Vol. 20, 1985, pp 25-26)
"Not generally" available means exactly the opposite of "not available to Royalty or wealthy nobles". This not being a tome of hundreds of pages, but rather a 900 word short essay, I have had to deal with hypocras elsewhere. Thanks for the references. I'll check them when time comes available.
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